San Telmo and High Tea

My last day in Buenos Aires was a Sunday steamer - hot and humid. It was also a day of contrasts! We started in San Telmo and wandered through crowds enjoying street perfromers, tango dancers, vendors and antique stalls.

We ended the day with the ultimate experience in luxury - High Tea at Hotel Alvear. It was an exquisite ending to a phenomenal trip! A few hours later I leave for the airport and three flights home.

San Telmo and High Tea Album

Morning Rain Canceled Kayak Tour

Morning rain canceled our trip north for our kayak and bike tour, but that didn't slow us down. We headed to Florida Street and plenty of shopping, then on to lunch at Cafe Tortoni, Bueanos Aires' version of Harry's Bar in Venice. Cafe Tortoni was the gathering spot for writers and artists at the turn of the last century, today it is a must see tourist spot.




We left the cafe to find the sun shining bright and hot! On to the Reserva Ecologica, an everglades conservation area filled with exotic birds, plants and trails. We rented bikes and surprise - managed to cover every trail in the reserve! Trail Map (green trail) It was beautiful and make me think of the ocean, the Cape Cod bike trail, the Jones River and marsh lands of the cape all at the same time. Man was it hot! Water never tasted so good!

Dinner With Matt Damon

Tonight we went to Lola's Restaurant for a delicious, romantic dinner, under the swaying leaves and twinkling lights in the garden. Once seated, Karen discovered Matt Damon and his family were directly behind me. My considerate daughter wouldn't let me turn around - dare snap a photo! Just my luck to pick that seat!!! Once Matt, his wife and the kids left, she allowed Adam to snap a shot of his parents, who are directly over my shoulder. So fun to hear Bostonian accents being bantered around after listening to Spanish for several days. BTW dinner was superb!

Tomorrow on to a bike and kayak tour then tango dancing at the Four Seasons. Ole!

Trendy Palermo

Trail Map

Like any cosmopolitan city, Buenos Aires has very distinct neighborhoods, or barrios, and they're not as simple as "China Town" or "North End." El Microcentro is the downtown/economic hub of the city. Retiro is adjacent to Microcentro and filled with focused professionals who want easy access to work. Puerto Madero is the super ritzy section along the water and is monopolized by new money from Brazil and Europeans.

San Telmo has loads of character with its colonial style buildings and cobbled stoned streets. It's a little run down and will likely be gorgeous in about 5 years, but its full size houses make it really attractive to middle class families.

Then there's Recoleta, where older, wealthy people live - very traditional. Palermo is next and in a nutshell it's "trendy." It's full of boutiques, international cafes and sushi restaurants, modern design stores, and beautiful people. The buildings are renovated, many still in the midst of renovations. It's not unique for someone to live in an old grain factory that now looks like a designer show room.

Palermo was our focus today. The neighborhood itself is divided into several sections - including Palermo, Palermo Viejo, Palermo Soho, Palermo Nuevo, and Palermo Hollywood. We actually started our day in "Barrio Chino" (China Town), where Karen had a business meeting. We then had lunch in Plamero Soho, close to Plaza Serrano and wandered around window shopping.

Christmas Day

We had one of our favorite summer dishes for Christmas dinner, tomato herb cheese bread. Beefsteak tomatoes are in season - truly a taste of heaven.

Karen and I went on a glorious evening walk but unfortunately forgot the camera! So many beautiful things, unrecorded. When Karen says, "Mom, it will only take about an hour." I should know better, 2 hours later... though we did have a minor distraction at the design center in Recoleta. See a Trail Map (red trail). We started near the Recoleta cemetery and then passed El Museo de Bellas Artes (like the mfa). From there explored Palermo Chico, where a lot of movie stars live and where many embassies are located. We admired gorgeous mansions with never ending, intriguing gardens and gateways. After passing the Malba (modern art museum), we continued on to El Parque de Palermo, which was packed with families with strollers and dogs, kids playing soccer, rollberbladers, rowers or rather paddle boaters, and runners. Oh and the rose garden - just gorgeous! Then we went up to Plaza Italia (half way point) and walked back along Libertador, where we passed the zoo and the botanical garden.

We finished off the day will a stroll (couldn't really walk anymore) to the ice cream store. Ice cream is a big deal here. At 10 pm the stores are packed with people. Perfect ending!

Christmas Eve

Turns out Christmas Eve is more like New Year's Eve in Argentina! Who knew? We headed out at 10:30 pm for a gourmet dinner only to discover the place went crazy when the clock stuck twelve! Take a look at all the fun! Feliz Navidad!

Christmas Eve

Christmas Decorations in Summer

How do you decorate for Christmas during summer? Here's a taste of holiday decorations from Buenos Aires. Feliz Navidad!

Christmas Decorations

Doorways of Buenos Aires

Doorways of Buenos Aires Album

The doorways in Buenos Aires are beautiful!

Sunscreen for Christmas Shopping

Buenos Aires is so beautiful and has a very familiar feel. The architecture has heavy European influences, especially French and Italian, with broad tree-lined boulevards, fountains, sculptures and sidewalk cafes. We spent most of the day walking, taking in the sights. I forgot how much I missed summer and green foliage - and my baby girl! See a map of our route (blue trail)

Buenos Aires Sightseeing

Karen wrote this recap ~

Our downtown walking tour started at Pacheco de Melo and Uriburu in Recoleta. From there, we headed towards Avenida de Calloa and took Arenales to Plaza de San Martin in Retiro. Along the way, we stopped at purse stores to find perfect leather handbag and home stores for Karen and Adam's new apartment. Plaza San Martin is named after San Martin, who liberated Bolivia, Peru, and Argentina from Spanish rule. It's hallmark symbol is a tall clock tower and a massive sculpture of San Martin himself surrounded by lush green trees and quaint gardens. The buildings around the plaza boast French architecture, so much so you feel as if you're in Paris.

Next up was Calle Florida, one of few pedestrian streets in Buenos Aires (think Faneuil Hall). Though you escape the crazy drivers and collectivos (buses), Florida St. is far from calm or "tranquillo" as Portenos would say. You must hold on to your purse and keep your guard up to withstand the solicitations and beggars... "leather factory, very nice jacket... restaurant special, english lady." The attraction to Florida St. is the shopping. Being Christmas Eve, it was packed.

Hunger called and we made our way to California Burrito Company, one of three Mexican places in Buenos Aires, only to find it closed. We ended up eating at La Calaberiza, a parrilla (Argentina steakhouse) overlooking the water in Puerto Madero. The massive portions of meat were a bit intimidating, but we shared a salad and some brochettes (shish kabobs).

After lunch, we continued walking along Puerto Madero and admired the clean, modern lines of the Puente de la Mujer (bridge of the woman). Then we went to Plaza de Mayo, which used to be the center of the city with La Catedral Metropolitana (main church), Casa Rosada (their version of the White House), the National Bank, etc. Then we were off to the Obelisco (the big phallic statue), the Opera House, and then home sweet home to rest up before our big night out!

I Made It!

Estoy en Buenos Aires! Llegue a las 9 de la manana y ahora estoy en mi depto argentino con Karen.

Karen says that means, "I'm here in Buenos Aires. I arrived at 9 this morning and now I'm in my apartment with Karen."

Summer heat feels wonderful and Karen has so many exciting things planned for me - the full porteno experience. Can't wait to get started, well maybe after a little nap...

Cry for me Argentina!

Boo Hoo! My third flight to Buenos Aires was canceled tonight! On the treacherous snowy ride home from Logan, I thought the trip wasn't going to happen. Heart broken, I tried Orbitz one more time. I found something!!!! Okay, it's not idea - three legs instead of two and more hours between each flight, but I'm going! The cat is going!

Does anyone know a sun dance? Stay tuned...
xo

Engagement Brunch

Still snowbound in Westwood, but celebrating my niece's engagement. Congratulations to Jeanne Hayes and Drew Barber! Wishing you a lifetime of happiness!

Three inches of snow predicted for today. $%@#!!!

Disappointing Start

My Boston flight was delayed making the connecting Miami flight impossible :-( The next possibility is Sunday @ 8:30 pm. Cross your fingers...

Packed and Ready

Well I know it's hard to believe that I could leave this winter wonderland behind, but I'm packed and ready to leave for Logan. Tomorrow, just before noon, Karen will meet me in Buenos Aires for summer fun. Can't wait to start my adventure.

Bon Voyage!
Kath

My Big Christmas Adventure

Greetings All!

I'm starting this blog to chronicle my trip to Argentina. Come along, and see what I've been up.

Wishing you all a wonderful holiday season.

Love,
Kath xo